This rare documentary takes a look at the true nature of magnetism, electricity and gravity. Crystals, Physics of a fractal universe and Spin on orbiting bodies. Also speaks of pyramids and how to make one to grow large crops. Dive into the natural world of shape power and Russellian cosmogony with Les Brown.
I decided to append a more detailed introduction to this article in order that readers can more fully realize the importance and value of the information being presented below. A properly constructed and orientated Giza-style pyramid can capture hidden energy fields that are normally unseen, untapped and unutilized. These include unique magnetic energy fields, but also other forms of unrecognized cosmic ray energy field manifestations that impart life force energy into plants and animals if captured and applied within the pyramid’s energy circuit grid. On a practical level, this means that food can be grown year round in a pyramid that will yield 6 crops of vegetables and fruits that are 2 to 4 times larger and more energy dense (more nutritious) than similar crops grown outside a pyramid’s circuit. Water or food (or supplements) placed inside a pyramid or on top of a pyramid energizer tray will pick up these life force energy fields and be ‘charged’ by them and impart that charge to any living system that consumes that water or food. Any type of food can be preserved for an indefinite period of time via a completely unique and singular desiccation process called mummification that is only possible to achieve with a Giza-style pyramid that is properly orientated on the true north-south axis. Mummified food can be reconstituted – after any length of storage time-by merely soaking the food in water for 24 hours. This will return the food to the same state of freshness that it held prior to mummification. Les Brown was perplexed that so few people seemed to grasp the importance of the tremendous benefits that can be realized by all of humanity –from tribal African villagers to urban housewives in Los Angeles — if Giza-style pyramids were constructed and utilized in our everyday lives. I hope present day readers will not be saddled with the puzzling apathy and lethargy that Les Brown had encountered 35 years ago. This information is a boon to mankind and anyone can make these pyramids.)
In the 1970s, Les Brown published a small book called The Pyramid, How to Build It; How to Use It.
In that book, he explained a simple way to correctly calculate the base, sides, and height for any size pyramid that would match the ratio and proportions of the Great Pyramid of Giza (Cheops) in Egypt.
Following this formula, which employs the Golden Mean ratio (also called Phi) of 1.618, the sides of the Giza pyramid are angled precisely at 51 degrees, 51 minutes, and 14 seconds.
Quoting from Chapter 2 of The Pyramid, Les Brown explains:
“The pyramid is built with straight lines of specific length and orientation. This is how we arrive at the line proportions. Imagine cutting the world in half at the equator (try this with an orange), taking the top half and cutting it into four quarters or quadrants, then taking one of these quarters and taking the peel off. Flatten out the peel and you will have a triangle with curved sides; trim the curve off without taking anything off the length and you will end up with one face side of a perfect pyramid. Having squared each triangle,put all four triangular shape pieces of peel together and you have transformed the northern hemisphere into a pyramid. The bottom corners of the base fit perfectly into the circle of the equator, and the sides lead up to its North Pole.
Using these proportions, any pyramid will function in unison with the natural elements that we enjoy, the natural elements that keep us alive and the world in balance. Change this ratio of measurement and you will drop below par in performance. The further you eviate from this formula the less performance you will get. Of course, we cannot build a pyramid as large as the northern hemisphere, but whatever size is built, if built in correct ration to the Great Pyramid of Cheops, it will give 100 percent performance.
I will not go into all the details of the Great Cheops, but will mention a few, just to illustrate that this ratio was strictly adhered to, plus a few more items which indicate that it is not just a beautiful structure, but was planned for a purpose. Cheops covers approximately 13.1 acres and is square at the base, as we shall see it must be. It has been measured throughout the centuries by many brilliant men, using cubits, metrics and inches, and after years of controversy as to whose measurements were right, the consensus of opinion accepted inches as being nearest to the correct measurement. The distance around the base of Cheops is 36,524.24 inches, which coincides remarkably with the 365.24 days of our lunar year. If we add together the diagonals of the Great Pyramid’s base, we find the sum to be 25,827 inches, a figure which also represents the number of years in the precession of the equinox.
The pyramid has five points and four sides plus a base. The line extending from the point shere it would touch the Equator up to the North Pole (base side corner to peak), leans in at 51 degrees, 51 minutes, 14 seconds. Since this book was intended to simplify matters so that you can conduct pyramid studies with ease, here is a simple way to figure out a perfectly proportioned pyramid of any size (See Figure 2.)
Predetermine the length of one side of your base (A). Now on paper, draw a square to your base, then divide it into four quarters. Now, draw a diagonal (B) down one of the small squares and measure it. Mark that measurement from the base up the center line (C). This will be the length of the apothem, that is, the length of the center line down one of the sloping sides of the pyramid. Finish off the triangle by drawing two lines (D) and (E), each running from the top of the mark you have made on the center line (C) down to a bottom corner of your base. By measuring these lines you now have the length of the side edges of your pyramid, and you already know the base measurement. When you look at the triangle you have just drawn, it may look too tall, but dopn’t forget that it has to lean in to join with the other three sides. When all four sides are put together you will have a pyramid the right height and leaning in at 51 degrees, 51 minutes, 14 seconds.
This method can be used for any size pyramid, whether it is two inches along its base or 46’1-1/4″. There are other methods of constructing a perfect pyramid, but this is the easiest. “
Following the above directions, you can make any size pyramid you want and achieve100% results, assuming that you orientate one edge of the pyramid’s base along an axis pointing precisely to true north or geophysical north (by establishing a fixed indicator – or local landmark – that aligns perfectly with the location of the North Star, or the Southern Cross if you live in the southern hemisphere).
Finding True North Using Google Earth
Update Sep. 8, 2011 I found an easier way to determine the correct direction of geophysical north for any location desired without going outside and trying to find the North star and plot a horizon landmark reference point. Anyone can download Google Earth for free and take advantage of the satellite images that cover the entire planet.
I opened up Google Earth and zoomed in on the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. I already knew that the north side of the Great Pyramid is precisely facing true north within 1/10 of one degree, so I left clicked the “N” icon of the circle above the directional navigational disc (which is located on the upper right of the Google Earth screen when you place your cursor in that region). Google Earth says this will orientate the screen image to true north. Sure enough, when I checked the west side of the Pyramid it ran exactly parallel to the left side margin of my screen, which confimred for me that the screen shot was orientated to precise geophysical north.
Here’s the screen shot I captured from Google Earth of the Great Pyramid viewed from 3500 feet above. You can see that the west side of the Pyramid (left side of the pyramid) runs perfectly parallel with the left hand margin of the screen.
You can take a Google Earth screen shot of your home (or wherever you plan to place a pyramid or use a pyramid energizer tray) and click the “N” icon in the upper right of the screen (just above the directional disc hub with arrows) to orientate the screen to true north. Now you can save the image and print out the screen shot of your home, properly enlarged to fill out most of the entire printed page.
Now you know that the left hand margin of the paper is orientated to true north and you can draw a series of parallel lines through your house (use a T Square, tape down the paper, and follow normal drafting technique) to indicate the true north-south axis. Try to draw your lines through locations along the edge of the roof which can be easily identified from the ground and allow you to drop a plumb line down to ground level and mark the exact location on the ground (with a stake) or mark the plumb line on the house itself.
You could also extend your drawn parallel lines out beyond the house roof line to cover your front and back yard and use bushes, or tress, fence posts, or other fixed objects on your property to run a string or run a laser beam to show you where the north-south axis runs from one side of your house to the other. If you set up your outside markers to line up with some of your windows, you could run a laser beam along the line of the outside markers and run the beam into your window (at night) and mark the beam’s window entry point and where it lands on a wall. You could then use a string (or laser pen) inside the house to connect these points and mark out parallel lines throughout the room so you would know exactly where the north-south axis lays in any room of your house. When you’re ready to set up your pyramid or energizer tray, you can use these pre-determined north-south markers to align your pyramid or energizer tray precisely along the north-south axis.
Using a Compass to Align with Geophysical (True) North (Updated & clarified on July 9, 2012, thanks to a note from Timo R in Bremen, Germany)
I’m located in southern California, about 45 miles south of Los Angeles. The precise location of Magnetic North (in relation to True or Geophysical North) is different depending on where you live on the planet. Magnetic North also shifts its location somewhat from time to time.. An easy way to determine the exact degrees of Magnetic Declinaiton (Magnetic North) for your location is to use this calculator from the National Geophysical Data Center (part of NOAA):
If you live in the USA, just type in your ZIP code on the right side of the page and hit the “Get Location” button to determine your Latitude and Longitude; which will automatically load into the calculator on the left side of the page. If you live outside of the USA, then choose your country from the drop down menu and enter a city that is closest to you (or, for greater precision, you can determine your Latitude and Longitude coordinates from Google Earth or Map Quest or many other online tools). Once you have your Latitude and Longitude coordinates entered into the calculator on the left side of the page, just click “Calculate” to find out your Magnetic Declination, which is expressed in Degrees-Minutes- Seconds (E.g. “12° 22′ 3″ changing by -5.5′ per year”, the reading for me here in Costa Mesa, California). You will also be shown whether your Magnetic North is located east or west of True North by indicating a plus sign. In my case, my calculator readings says “+E / -W” which tells me that Magnetic North for my location is located EAST of True North.
Now that I know that my compass needle (when level) will point to 12 degrees, 22 minutes East of True North, I simply rotate the green azimuth line (starting from magnetic north) on the compass bezel to the left by 12.3 degrees (roughly equals 12 degrees, 22 minutes) and now I know my azimuth line is pointing exactly at True North (the compass needle will continue to point at Magnetic North as I rotate the green azimuth line to the left). I now use this azimuth line setting to adjust the side of my Pyramid (or my Pyramid tray) to be parallel with this line. Once I do that, I now have one side of my pyramid that is perfectly perpendicular to True North, exactly as seen with the Great Pyramid of Giza. I need to mark this azimuth line on the fixed table or platform that holds my pyramid so I can re-align the side of my pyramid if it gets knocked out of position.
The compass I’ve been using for the past 14 years is a Coleman “Engineer” Lensatic compass. I paid about $15 for it. The outer 360 degree scale is marked in 2 degree increments. The north pointing arrow on the compass always points to the 360 degree mark on the outer scale, so I rotate the outer (moveable) bezel ring so the long green Azimuth Line is pointing to the top dead center of the compass needle. I then hold the compass level and allow the North arrow disc to rotate to magnetic north. I then rotate my body (while holding the compass) so the green line aligns with the 348 degree mark on the outer scale (360 degrees – 12 degrees = 348 degrees). The green line on the bezel is now pointing to true (geophysical) north. However, to increase the precision of alignment, I decided to spend more money and I ordered a high end German compass that uses a much larger diameter scale and has a magnifier and increment readings of 1 degree accuracy (I love this baby). The one I ordered is a Kasper & Richter Meridian Pro Sighting compass. I found it a little cheaper at Amazon.com and I ordered it from them for $148 plus shipping.
I want to be sure that my pyramids accurately align with true north within one degree, so I decided that the investment in a high end, precision compass was worth it. I still plan on using the Google Earth overhead views of my house, aligned with true north by Google’s satellites, to verify that I’m getting the same axis alignment as indicated on my new German compass.
If you have a GPS (Global Positioning Satellite) receiver, then GPS should work OK if you’re outside and can get a signal from 3 satellites. I don’t think it works indoors, but I don’t own one, so I don’t know for sure. I know some cell phone or iphones have GPS capability which uses cell towers, which would work inside your house, but I don’t know how accurate they are for indicating true north (maybe someone can e-mail me if they know more about this)
Plot Your Pyramid on Paper First
First, decide on how long you want the base of your pyramid to be: 5 inches, 10 inches, 5 feet, 10 feet, 50 feet, whatever. Then, draw the above diagram to SCALE (E.g. draw out a 5 inch base line for a 5 inch pyramid, or a 5 foot pyramid, or a 50 foot pyramid), follow the instructions given above, and then MEASURE carefully with a precision ruler the height of the apothem (B or C in the above drawing) and the length of the side edges (D or E in the above drawing) and mark down those measurements. These are the three critical measurements you need to build your pyramid and match the 51 degree, 51 minute, 14 second slope of the Giza pyramid.
It is not necessary to build a pyramid with solid sides. You can just build a pyramid frame out of rigid wire (smaller pyramids only), cast rion pipe, or rigid copper tubing, rigid EMT tubing, or wood and achieve the SAME results as a pyramid with solid sides. To get the Giza action, you MUST orientate one side of the base to align with an axis to true north and secure it in place so it won’t move after you’ve set it correctly.
Indefinte Food Preservation Capability at No Cost
If you build a platform exactly 1/3 up from the base (1/3 the length of the apothem), you can dry out (mummify) food and preserve it for an indefinite period of time without decay or deterioration and without the need for refrigeration. Even more remarkable, the pyramid energizer trays discussed below, will mummify (preserve) any type of food placed on top of the tray with even greater efficiency and at a faster rate than food placed inside a pyramid. Once mummified, the food will be much lighter in weight and quite hard, almost glass-like in structure, until it is reconsittuted by soaking in water for 24 hours and then can be cooked and eaten. Les Brown reports that reconstituted, mummified food taste better than fresh.
As a test, you can crack a fresh egg into a shallow dish and place the egg on the 1/3 high platform inside the pyramid or place it on top of an energizer tray (properly aligned with true north). If the egg congeals into a plastic-like form (Les said about 2 weeks) without any hint of bacteria odor or indications of decay, you have successfully mummified your egg and can reconstitute it by soaking in water for 24 hours and them cook in hot water to make a poached egg. Les Brown mummified a number of eggs and re-constituted them many months later to discover that they tasted just as fresh as a new egg. In fact, he said that reconstituted eggs tasted better than ordinary, fresh eggs.
Les said that the energizer trays will even mummify eggs left in their shell in the same way as a cracked open egg will congeal. Think of how many tons of eggs are thrown away each year because of insufficient refrigeration or from spoilage due to extended storage. But If mummified, these eggs could remain in storage indefinitely and witout any need for refrigeration. Once reconstituted by soaking in water for 24 hours, the eggs would tase just as good as fresh.
By the way, if your egg doesn’t mummify, then you either A) didn’t build the pyramid to the correct dimensions or B) you didn’t properly orientate the pyramid (or the energizer tray) to true north.
Les found that flies and other insects inside his house would not touch the food placed on top of the pyramid energizer tray (or inside an open pyramid) even though the food was out in the open and flies were present in his house.
Here’s a photo from Les Brown’s book showing a mummified egg that was placed inside a glass ashtray dish and left on an energizer tray for about 2 weeks. The carton of eggs is sitting on a pyramid energizer tray, which is simply a group of 20, 25 or 50 or 72 (any even number that will make a symmetrical tray) of 1.5 inch cardboard pyramids assembled onto a single tray. Les Brown recommends placing a thin gauge aluminum panel (or a heavy cardboard covered with aluminum foil) on top of the energizer to distribute the weight of the food placed on top and to consolidate the pyramid energy being transmitted from the tips of the individual pyramids. Remember, that the pyramid energizer tray itself must be orientated along an axis to true north in order to work properly.
Here’s a link to a page I put together with six 1.5 inch pyramid cutout forms that can be made using 110 lb weight paper or thin cardboard such as the type used for posters. Cut out the outline of each pyramid and only snip the short solid line in the center of each side where it touches the corner points of the base. Carefully score the thin cardboard using a butter knife or awl along the dotted lines and fold in the edge flaps and glue the flaps to each other to hold the pyramid together. I use little spring clamps to hold the flaps together while the glue is setting. It’s easy to make these little pyramids and once you made a couple of them, you’ll find that it doesn’t take that long to make 20 or 30 of them. Stiffer poster cardboard is obviously stronger than thinner poster cardboard, but use what you have available. If strapped for money, you can pick up 9 x 12 flat rate Priority or Express (thin cardboard) envelopes at the post office, slit them open, and then glue the paper cutout forms to the cardboard and cut out your pyramids from there. This grade of cardboard is easy to cut out, score, and and bend, yet makes a fairly strong pyramid when glued together.
1.5 inch cardboard Pyramid cutout forms
Assemble your pyramids on a wooden or plastic platform (1/8, or 1/4, or 3/8 inch is more than strong enough) or use thin gauge aluminum panels of 1/32, 1/16, or 3/32 inch thickness, cut to the correct size, and glue down each 1.5 inch pyramid with a dab of Household Goop (which is very strong, but will spread thin). You can leave enough room around the perimeter of the tray to attach a small wooden edging ledge to butt the sides of the pyramids against. This ledge can be used to keep the tray firmly in place with screws or clamps once orientated on a true north-south axis.
Be careful when gluing down the pyramids that they touch each other evenly and remain perfectly parallel to each other. You might want to pencil in a grid on top of the tray to be sure each pyramid is placed correctly and not skewed. You can spray paint the pyramids if you want to make it look fancy. The spray paint can also serve to harden the cardboard somewhat and make it less subseptible to damage from water.
The graph on the right is an example of what a 20 pyramid tray would look like when viewed from above.
Here’s a 72 pyramid tray with a hefty edging around the perimeter, taken from Les Brown’s book. Notice the aluminum foil covered cardboard in the background.
Kirlian photos have been made of pyramid energizer trays, properly orientated to true north, and you could see a type of light beam fountain of rays coming out of the apex of the each pyramid. When you set water or food or plants on these trays, they will pick up this energy and exhibit more life force. The plants that Les grew inside his 46 foot pyramid green house in Bancroft, Ontario, Canada produced vegetbles that were 2 to 3 times larger than comparable crops grown outside of his pyramid.
You can build and set up a pyramid anywhere and take advantage of its ability to concentrate and transduce cosmic energies, but unless you build it to the correct dimensions and align it precisely along true north, you won’t get the spectacular results that are possible. You might compare it to highly directional, narrow beam radio reception. Unless your ‘antennae’ is pointed exactly at the radio transmitter, you’re not going to pull in the signal.
There are many more hidden mysteries involved with pyramid power than that discussed here, but we shall explaore this topic in greater depth in the future. .
Les Brown’s pyramid greenhouse was covered with plastic sheeting initially to keep out the wind and to allow heating in the winter so he could grow 6 crops year around. He obtained fabulous results by building the pyramid frame to the correct dimensions and aligning the base with true north. Anybody can build a pyramid greenhouse to any size desired – even inside an attic with skylights – to allow sufficient light to grow plants. Remember, you only need the outline frame of the pyramid to get results; you don’t have to cover the sides.
Start with the 1.5 inch cardboard pyramids cutouts linked above and make onr or more an energizer trays. If properly aligned with true north, there is no reason you won’t get the same results that Les Brown acheived when he was running these experiments back in the 1970s.
You might be plesantly surprised to discover just how useful and beneficial a pyramid can be. .
by Ken Adachi
ARTICLE SOURCE: http://educate-yourself.org/pyr/howtobuildpyramid05sep11.shtml